The forces driving the synthesized meat movement are practical. Modern agricultural systems are helping destabilize Earth’s climate and ecosystems, while extreme weather events add immense uncertainty to farming and ranching.

Scientists at Oxford and the University of Amsterdam have estimated that cultured meat would require 7 to 45 percent less energy, occupy 99 percent less land, and produce 78 to 96 percent less greenhouse gas than conventional animals farmed for consumption.

But once we’re able to synthesize meat, we’ll face a novel regulatory challenge.

Theoretically, we’ll have the capability to culture meat from any animal, which means that some people will choose to culture and consume animals we’d never consider eating today because of their high level of intelligence, like dolphins, chimpanzees, and elephants.

Someone, somewhere, might just attempt to make cocker spaniel kebabs, which, technically, will fall outside the jurisdiction of current regulatory agencies.

A ban on certain synthetic meats might go into effect, but a black market and an underground speakeasy scene for thrill-seeking diners would potentially emerge.

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